this post was submitted on 18 Mar 2024
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[–] IndiBrony@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Now I don't know enough about electronics to know how wrong this is, but I do know enough about electronics to know that this absolutely sounds wrong.

The problem comes when someone takes an answer like this, knowing far less than I do, and they try and hook up their fridge to a car battery.

And this is why I hate LLMs. Being confidently wrong is scary enough when it's just people, nevermind technology.

It does make me chuckle, though, that Skynet could have been totally innocent in their destruction of the human race, they just confidently came to the wrong conclusion and had the tools to carry it out.

Like a toddler whose inner thoughts are telling him to throw a cat out of the window. He doesn't know he's going to kill it, he just knows that's what his brain is telling him to do.

[–] Worx@lemmynsfw.com 1 points 1 year ago

We know this comment by Shannon Martin is correct and sensible because it was reviewed by Shannon Martin! As a licensed insurance agent, I'm sure she is qualified to talk about uh.. electronics.. hmm

[–] MrEff@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Looking passed the absolutely insane answer here, no one has even brought up the whole issue of AC vs DC. Batteries are DC, while your fridge that plugs into your wall running on AC. I know they make DC ones, but it isn't like they are interchangeable.

[–] Naz@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

Hello, expert solarpunk here.

TLDR: Car battery is 350Wh. Fridge uses 143W idle, so it'll run a fridge for 2-3 hours.

Explanation below:

Car batteries are lead-acid (sulphuric acid and lead plates).

They discharge according to Peukert's Law as the negatively charged plate gets covered in lead via the acid (electrolyte).

As the battery depletes, the negative plate can begin to take permanent damage, and so you can't discharge a lead-acid deeper than 10-20%, or about 10.8V, with the safe limit being ~50% discharge.

Most 12V, 60Ah batteries therefore only safely store and nominally discharge 350 Wh @ 350W.

You can discharge that as fast as you want but the faster you discharge, the lower the capacity is (with 1000-1500W bringing you way down to like 65 Wh). Fridges have a surge when they start up to fire up the compressor. Starter batteries can take that, but once the refrigerant is cold, the fridge just maintains the temperature which uses a lot less energy - about 143W on average.